Milwaukee Art Museum 700 N. Art Museum Drive, Milwaukee www.mam.org
Through December 24
By Graeme Reid
Even today, the thing that strikes you most in the high Arctic is the silence. What we in southeastern Wisconsin consider silent or quiet is actually saturated with ambient noise: the wind, the rustle of leaves, cars, kids, a radio playing in a car as it drives by. In the silence is pure and it overwhelmed me in 1998 when I visited my brother Dave in Pond Inlet, located 600 miles inside the Arctic Circle at the top of Baffin Island. Lying awake in bed at 2:00 a.m. one night (if you can call it night when it’s bright daylight outside), with the town of 1200 souls slumbering peacefully and the bedroom windows covered with aluminum foil to block the ever-present May sun, I listened – hard – and heard nothing. Occasionally a snowmobile buzzed by in the distance, then total silence reigned once more. This envelopment of tranquility was even more profound a few days later when I traveled to the floe edge – where the ice meets open water. Sleeping in tents 60 miles from town, all of our snowmobiles lay idle, and we were entombed in the arctic stillness.
This stillness is present and captured in the Milwaukee Art Museum’s current photography show Photographs from the Ends of the Earth. Curated by Lisa Hostetler, the MAM’s associate curator of photographs, from the holdings of the American Geographical Society of the University of Wisconsin- Milwaukee, it is simultaneously a lesson in plus ça change, plus c’est la méme chose – the more things change, the more they stay the same – as well as a dramatic reminder that the natural wonders and resources of our planet are both relatively new to our comprehension and yet so vulnerable to our behavior; while things may look like they don’t change, they are doing so in subtle and detrimental ways.
When John L. Dunmore and George Critcherson boarded the SS Panther and struggled bravely northwards in 1869 carrying their new fangled photographic equipment, the silence must have been profound, even in an age that was yet to experience cars, planes and recorded music. Perhaps more unnerving than the quiet must have been the sense of isolation and adventure into the unknown. Their wooden ship was a veritable eggshell against the powerful ice floes and the crew would have been reluctantly mindful of past expeditions that had vanished without trace or suffered dramatic personnel losses to the frigid temperatures. (Sir John Franklin and the crew from two ships disappeared without a trace in 1847 and there are still lonely graves of whales that dot the landscape). The subsequent photographs taken by the two pioneers were published in two books: The Land of Desolation (1872, featuring engravings, not original prints) and The Arctic Regions: Illustrated with Photographs Taken on an Art Expedition to Greenland (1874). Small in scale, these toned images capture the majestic barrenness of the arctic and the overwhelming sense of inferiority and vulnerability these explorers must have felt. Count Hans Wilczek went into the Arctic on board the SS Isbjorn in 1872. His images have a greater awareness of aesthetics than Dunmore and Critcherson, revealing that in the hands of some practitioners, photography was more than just a tool for recording what was physically there, but a sense of what was there.
Another expedition in the late 1920s which involved both ships and airplanes, saw George Hubert Wilkins taking pictures and his panorama photo from 1928-29, Schlossbach and Myers on Deck, showing pack ice brilliantly captures this sense of adventure, bordering on foolhardiness, that these men undertook. The bow of the ship juts out above a seemingly endless expanse of ice; one can almost hear the clunk and thud of the bow against the visible and invisible chunks of ice. Of all the images in this show, this one perhaps better encapsulates man’s incessant quest to better understand and know this earth in an age when many areas remained mysterious. While today, we know so much more thanks to satellite imagery, this inescapable element of nature dwarfing man still exists and is exemplified in Stuart Klipper’s Tail of Herc 719, Spryte Vehicle, South Polar Plateau, 1989. The tracked passenger vehicle looks like a fabricated toy next to the airplane’s tail section. Even in their modest format, Klipper’s work majestically captures the sheer scale of Antarctica.
I had my own experience of being utterly insignificant in this environment when one day I (foolishly) buzzed around on my own by snowmobile. Unused to a timetable dictated not by a clock but the vagaries of an omnipresent sun, I grew restless and went exploring. The Inuit I was camping with on a hunting expedition were content to remain at their base on Bylot Island, Lily watching the kids and Sam waiting for the right time to hunt caribou. A few miles from camp and momentarily unable to distinguish the immediate topography of my surroundings due to flat light, I rode off a six foot high ledge. The machine stopped on its side, throwing me headlong into the snow. For what seemed like an eternity I struggled to right the machine, hoping it would restart. Finally, I got it upright and, covered in sweat despite the cold and numerous layers of clothing, I started the machine and rode slowly and gingerly, back to camp. For a moment I was alone in an unfamiliar world, disoriented and scared. Yes, Sam would have eventually come looking for me, but as I look at many of the older photographs in this show, I have an inkling of some of the feelings they must have felt, particularly Shackleton’s men waiting for him to return.
Upon my return to camp, I sheepishly said nothing of my adventure, melding back into some traditional Inuit lifestyle: caribou stew (made fresh from recently slaughtered ca ribou whose entrails still stained the ground red), char chowder (the just-caught fishes had lain as stiff as 2”x 4”s until thrown into the skillet) and bits of char meat nibbled from thin slices of fish skin. This was traditional fare from the land and I ate every meal with relish. Did I have a choice? No. I didn’t care as I was instantly given a lesson in survival from the land and the endurance of tradition. Most food is flown in and as a consequence outrageously expensive; there is plenty of seal, caribou and whale to be had for those still willing to hunt. When Sam went out in search of food, he slipped on his sealskin boots; when Lily went about her daily business, she wore a traditional parka where the hood served double duty: keeping her head warm, or, if not required, offering a handy place to stow a kid. Those buggies don’t roll so well in thick snow.
This show features several images by Dunmore and Critcherson as well as Donald B. MacMillan or Edwin S. Brooke Jnr. that amply demonstrate that the more things change, the more they stay the same. The portraits by the former pair show a Kalak Bone Carpenter and his Wife (Albumen silver print from glass negative, c.1869). While they look bewildered and distracted in front of a makeshift blanket backdrop, their clothing and physiognomy have changed little in the intervening 150 years or the 1500 before that. Knud Rasmussen’s [Men and sledge] and [Three Eskimos] (Gelatin silver print, 1921-24) show repairs being made to a komatik (sledge) by men wearing traditional clothing with dogs hanging about in the background. When I stepped off the plane in Pond Inlet and went for a walk, a komatik full of kids and pulled by a full team of dogs glided by. Snowmobiles break down. Gas and spare parts are expensive. Dogs can be “fed off the land” for free and the wooden komatiks are simply constructed with wood and rope, making repairs easy. Nails don’t work too well when the temperature is below zero and the terrain continually twists and jars the long sleds. This adherence to time-honored ways of doing things is not done out of perversity in the face of modern improvements, they simply work better. This is starkly brought home in Lt. Henry R. Bowers’s photo of Robert Falcon Scott’s doomed crew of 1910-12. The men stand dressed in what was undoubtedly the best-available-at-the-time gear, but to us its mixture of wool and canvas seem wholly inadequate even for a Wisconsin winter. It is unfortunate that their arrogance cost them so dear; Robert E. Peary, who made several trips to the arctic between 1898 and 1902 wisely acknowledged that maybe the natives knew a thing or two and employed dogs, indigenous clothing and advisors. On the way back from our Bylot trip we met another family going outbound; one little girl wore a romper suit made completely from caribou skin. (Incidentally, 23Peary’s taped commentary is available in the gallery, but a tad distracting when one wants to enjoy the images in silence). Even today, with almost twenty years Arctic experience under his belt, my brother still takes Inuit guides with him on trips. In addition to being allowed to carry guns (polar bears can get a bit inquisitive when hungry) the Inuit simply have a sixth sense for the weather and an ability to read the ice that no white man can match.
While modern technologies of satellite photography, air travel, icebreaker ships and developments in adequate clothing to combat the extreme temperatures have eliminated much of the remoteness, risks, time and hardship of travel to the arctic, photographs like Dunmore and Critcherson’s could still, to a great extent, be taken today. Contemporary artist Rena Bass Forman’s gorgeous toned gelatin silver prints, taken in 2001 and 2003, are perfect examples of this. Other than being primarily concerned with aesthetics rather than documentary and being printed to a size unimaginable in the 1860s, their subject matter is timeless. Diane Cook’s two large format images straddle the aesthetic/documentary line but lack the appeal of both the 19th century works or even that of Forman; ironically, in a place so cold, the warmth of the timed prints is more appealing than Cook’s black and white images which seem stark and harsh.
If there is one salient lesson of this exhibition it is that there are still places on this globe, both north and south, that have retained their magnificently inhospitable nature to man. What is alarming however, is the indirect impact man is having through global warming as ice sheets shrink and glaciers melt and crumble. Stuart Klipper’s Ross Ice Shelf photo from 1992 is a stunning image that belies man’s impact. On the surface we see a vast, apparently limitless expanse of ice, devoid of anything but frozen water. How can something so big be destroyed one might ask? If a little is lost, there’s still so much! While the caribou in Subhanker Banerjee’s large format Caribou Migration I (Digital chromogenic print, 2007) look like ants on the vast white expanse, as they follow time-tested and established migration patterns. At what point does man’s arrogance and inexhaustible greed for oil determine that all other creatures and their habits are expendable? This is the careless, smug, selfish attitude that will only serve to convince governments to ignore global warming and the earth’s fragile ecosystem until it is too late. Both images are at once deceptively reassuring and a resolute call for conservation. In the 1860s when Dunmore and Critcherson went north, the industrial revolution was but a flea bite on the world’s climate; today, global warming bites like a massive snake: slowly and methodically it eats its prey with a very difficult extraction process.
Even if you have never been to the Arctic or Antarctic (brother Dave has been to both), this terrific show is a wakeup call that man has only really known this planet intimately for a relatively short time, yet in that time span has managed to perhaps irreparably damage it beyond repair. The old images are exciting, fascinating and beautiful as are the modern ones, but the lessons they offer are cautionary. While the Inuit love their soda, satellite TV and snowmobiles, they are inherently in tune with their environment and will suffer for the developed world’s excesses; unfortunately for many of us they are out of sight and out of mind. We still have much to learn and less and less time to do it in.
Full Moon Edition No. 2 11.24.07
Copyright 2007 Art History Chicks LLC
George Hubert Wilkins, Schlossbach and Myers on Deck.
Stuart Klipper, Tail of Herc 719, Spryte Vehicle, South Polar Plateau, 1989.
Portraits by Dunmore and Critcherson.
Subhander Banerjee, Caribou Migration I, 2007.
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